Atelier
Art of Handcrafting Jadau Jewellery
STEP 1 – DESIGN – CHAAP
The design is the first & most important step where the graphic representation/ blueprint of all ideas and thought-process is formed. The proficient designers work hard to prepare exquisite formations out of modern inspirations and our rich heritage. These designs are shared with the karigars, who bring them to life with sheer aestheticism.
STEP 2 – MOUNT- GHAT
Making of Ghat, the second step of crafting the Jadau Jewellery. Ghat is a gold frame over which the complete jewellery is built; crafted by Ghadia. The sections are structured to bring the final look of the design. Depending on the design, it could be a single structure with sections or different separate structures.
STEP 3 – ENGRAVING – KHUDAI
Khudai being the third process, is where engravers create beautiful reliefs on the ghats for enameling. The skill-set of engravers is incomprehensible, not just because of the delicate formations but for the artistic aesthetic with which they forge the composition. For engraving, the Ghat is mounted on a wooden baton, with a layer of sealing wax, then the outlines are prepared using a pen or pencil then the engraving is done using a sharp metal tip. The engraved piece of Ghat is shared with the Meenakaars for the further ornamentation.
STEP 4 – ENAMELING – MEENAKARI
Enameling, here is the art of ornamenting the gold by fusing glass in it. The colors and patterns add the story and richness to the piece of art. After the hard work done by the engravers, the meenakaar takes over and prepares the colors as per the design. The meenakaar paints the enamel using a brush then fires it at high temperatures, so the enamel holds the surface. Multiple coats are painted and fired to achieve the desired thickness and reflection. After cooling the enamelled piece, the jadaia takes it to the next process of embedding the stones.
STEP 5 – EMBEDDING – JADAI
Jadai is the fifth stage of this process, where the jadaia embeds the gemstones using kundan in the structures of the jewellery. The ghat is again mounted on the sealing wax, the laakh is filled in every section of the ghat & is heated again to remove any air pockets. Jadaia sorts the stones on behalf of an acute calculation of caratage as any slight change in the measure of the stone can be a problem while settling the complete piece. After sorting, gemstones are foiled with a shining metal foil (made of gold or silver).
STEP 6 – BEADING – PIROI
Jadai is the fifth stage of this process, where the jadaia embeds the gemstones using kundan in the structures of the jewellery. The ghat is again mounted on the sealing wax, the laakh is filled in every section of the ghat & is heated again to remove any air pockets. Jadaia sorts the stones on behalf of an acute calculation of caratage as any slight change in the measure of the stone can be a problem while settling the complete piece. After sorting, gemstones are foiled with a shining metal foil (made of gold or silver).